Sucre & Surrounds

Blockades beat and it was time to afford ourselves some relaxation before we tried anything strenuous again.

On arriving in Sucre we were fortunate to meet an Irish chap (also called David) we had previously meet who recommended a hostel on the closest side of town that allowed us to put down our bags and relax.

While the hostel was very average we decided enough was enough and we would find something better the following day (by Bolivian standards this place was still OK - the showers were hot, but the rooms were cold and noisy). We went to one of the best bars/restaurants in Bolivia so far (Joyride Cafe) and settled into a great meal and some local beers, before retiring for an early night.

Day two, we set about finding a new hostel and backing up our photos to DVD before we headed to Cafe Mirador which is on the hill overlooking Sucre for lunch in the sunshine - really a magic venue and a great relaxing day. Before long a large group of us found ourselves at another Gringo hangout in town (Locots) for dinner, and later in a few of the local pubs.

No surprises for guessing then that the following day saw a late start before we began with a cooked breakfast, then headed to Salon de te las Delicias for late lunch with Ant and Lisa. This place is one of the finest establishments in Sucre and we certainly looked out of place in our travelling attire. The food here is delicious and varied - while we didn´t opt for anything large Ant quickly finished the meat trio (Chicken, Tail and Tongue) which he assured us was delicious. We finished off the day with Pizza and retired feeling like stuffed animals.

The following day we set about preparing for the trek we planned for the following two days, and took in the local textile museum. At the museum we watched two ladies weaving and checked out the evolution of Bolivian weaving along with the differing designs of the respective regions. While Ant did most of the organising for us Kim buried herself in a book (again) and I spent one and a half hours in the bank trying to convert $500USD to Bolivianos... Again food was a central part of the day with El Germain coming highly recommended for lunch if you are ever in Sucre, before a serious carbo loading session at Joyride.

(Side Note: At Joyride they serve a Bolivian meal known as Pique de la Macho - French Fries covered in bits of steak, chorizo sausage, hot peppers and gravy - enough to satisfy even the largest hunger and absolutely delicious. This dish should be on every Bolivian travellers itinerary).

Having had enough food we set out on our trek to the weaving country around Sucre.

First up was a hour long bus ride to Chataquila which was interesting - standing (with a roof less than 6 foot high), gravel roads and surrounded by men chewing coca leaves with breath that could strip paint a mile away!

Once at Chataquila we found the entrance to an old Inca Road for a walk downhill towards Chaunaca. The road was well preserved in places and it is definitely amazing to think that anyone would want to arrange rocks of this size on the side of a hill (mountain) this steep manually all those years ago.

From the bottom of the Inca road we followed a track firstly through farmland and then along the side of a river to Socabamba (despite there being a school there the town appeared to be deserted) before crossing the river on a wire bridge. After crossing the river the going got tough as we headed uphill past some locals farms and over the ¨Ledge of Death¨. At the ¨Ledge of Death¨ the trail was almost non existent (45 degree slope, covered in loose metal and falling away steeply to a loooong way below). When Kim froze with me right behind in the middle we coined the term ¨Ledge of Death¨ and at the same time I realised the track was only as wide as our shoes! One of the locals coming the other way wearing Bridgestones (my name for the local footwear - sandals made from what looks like old tyres) noticed the panic as we crossed and proceeded to run across (looking back at us at the same time) smiling.

After nearly six hours walking we arrived at Maragua for what was one of the most spectacular sunrises one will ever see. Here we stayed in some Cabanas which have been set up by the community to house trekkers like ourselves with all funds going back to the local community - it was a beautiful rock and straw hut with hot water, flushing loos and great food (provided by a local girl who appeared all of about 15 years old).

Day two and after breakfast we arranged a guide to show us the way to Patolo. Unfortunately Maragua only has a small store so we had to settle for biscuits for lunch and water from the tap with iodine solution for the 5 hour trek which had us debating if we should go on or turn back to the bus at Chaunaca (2-3 hours away). Fortunately we decided to carry on and set out to Patolo. Along the way we encountered local farmers taking their livestock to the market (including one lady walking three cows in the middle of nowhere) and took in some fossilised dinosaur prints. The days walking was relatively easy compared to the previous day at five hours, although the guide certainly made us feel like we were hauling boulders.

On arriving in Patolo we had the guide show us to the cabanas (same as in Maragua) only to find the man from Sucre had not told them we were coming. The day was saved by a thirteen year old boy who noticed us and told us about the hostel his parents owned. The hostel turned out to be perhaps the coldest and most uncomfortable night we have ever experienced, although the family were very welcoming as they continued to operate the takeaway restaurant, shop and hostel that all shared the same premises.

Finally we took a three hour bus back to Sucre (again standing, but this time with sufficient headroom and less bad breath) over a road that was both spectacular and hair raising at the same time.

After another night in Sucre, and some serious food we boarded a flight to La Paz (population 1.5 million), as roadblocks around Potosi are still causing trouble for transport by road (although in hindsight we both enjoyed the 45 minute flight more than we would have a 16 hour bus ride).

Our next stop is Coroico, which we will reach by descending the worlds most dangerous road on mountain bike...

Good to hear the All Blacks beat England last night.

Until Next Time,

Dave & Kim